Part 1: Goa. April 11 to May 1, 2006

Well, it's been a few weeks here and I must admit it's pretty damn near any fantasy I ever had of paradise. We're staying in a coconut palm thatched hut on a hill overlooking Palolum Beach. We've been adopted by a cat that visits us every day to curl up by our feet when it's too hot to do anything but sit outside on the daybed and read in the shade of our massive palm awning. Post-tourist season and pre-monsoon things are pretty lazy - which is exactly what we wanted. All the locals are much more friendly than expected (after a long alcohol and rave riddled party season I had expected some cranky Indians), they're happy it's over, but soon many go home (most are from Karnataka) to jobs that pay even less than the rs.100/day-or about $2.20 that they make here. The Indian's are always laughing and joking with each other and whenever you catch someone's eye they smile and say hello. Naturally, there is a bit of schmooze from some people, but that's expected from such an impoverished place that relies on tourist bucks. But, the hustle has been minimal and when you say you're not interested they still smile and thank you for coming into their store. The weather cannot be better. From living between NYC and LA for so long I've learned to love the heat. Plus there's always the nice cool Arabian Sea to dive into. The other evening we saw two dolphins swimming in the surf with the locals and tourists, it was pretty spectacular.

It is also important to note that all those postcard perfect photographs of women wearing brilliantly colored saris are not set-up shots. We'd just come off the beach (yes, I will continue to rub it in!) where there must have been 200 women swimming. It was a color-field of laughter in the surf.

I won't bore anyone with descriptions of amazing sunsets, great food, and cheap prices...but I could and I probably will later!

On Saturday, April, 15th , we decided to go to the nearest town to hit an ATM. Chaudi is a tidbit town of about 2000 people, but on market day it transforms into a whirlwind of insane chaos that makes the Barney's Warehouse Sale look like a zen center.

Since then, there's been massage's in the ocean, yoga, body surfing, and the night of the 20th there was a rave on the beach that kept us up till 6:30 am! We're too old for those things so we bought earplugs (ineffective) and spent the night tossing and turning and cursing those damn kids. By the end of the next day there were a lot of very pink people waking up in beach chairs.

The stay in Goa has been a wonderful and very soft landing. We're off to the insanity of Mumbai on the 1st of May...wish us luck.

In some of the pictures above you'll see hotel staff (who were wonderful) mixed in with some of the people we've met along the way. One important note is that we befriended Rebecca Andrist who, in turn, introduced us to some wonderful people who are in the last two pictures (2nd to last picture: Megan, Rebecca, and Helen. Last picture: Andreas, Peter, Megan, Peter, and Rebecca...the dogs wish to remain anonymous).

The following are a few of Peter's observations:

Mosquito's love DEET like an Irishman loves Guinness. But, the toxic chemicals used in the DEET products make a wonderful body-oil that penetrates the tightest pores and softens even the roughest of skin to a baby soft touch!

Underwear is highly overrated, as are showers, shaving and deodorant.

Before coming to India it is important to become very proficient in the yoga pose called Malasana. Research the pose online then look at the photo of our toilet...this observation will become very clear.

A cold bucket shower has more waking power than an adrenalin shot directly into the heart.

One good face-plant into the sand while body surfing is a great way to exfoliate.

Mosquito's come out at dusk, dawn, and when I'm practicing yoga.

PMB 29.4.06