goneawol.net

After about 2 months on Tioman we decided to make more constructive use of our time and travel a bit. One destination that we both thought would be of interest was the Cameron Highlands, an area known for massive tea plantations tucked into beautiful mountains. But first, we decided to go to Kuala Lumpur. A CITY! YEA! That meant current moooovies in English, on big screens, surround-sound, popcorn and air conditioning. That meant international haute cuisine. That also meant we could replace some of the few clothes we’ve been wearing for well over a year now.

I loved KL. It has the new and clean as well as the dirty and old. Modern architecture towers over defunct opium den-esque buildings. Super-fast efficiency collides with old world charm and the ideals of Islam, Hindi, Buddhism, and Christianity gracefully overlap to create a really beautiful and tolerant city. The only tauters were street masseuses who showed us pictures of themselves smiling as they gave pummeled unsuspecting models.

When we weren’t basking in air-conditioned movie theaters we took in the the Petronas Towers (tallest towers in the world), the KL Tower (5th tallest single tower in the world), the Batu Caves (an incredible hindu shrine), and spent a lot of time just wandering around like lost farang’s (white people). One thing that made me feel at home in KL is that no matter where I was in the city I could look for the towers to figure out where I was. I do have to admit, really I miss having two beautiful towers in my life from which to navigate.

 

The weekend we arrived was close to the time of the opening of the Transformers film and The Malaysian GT CIrcuit Race. The entire city was buzzing and everywhere we went had robots or race cars or both. On the weekend the streets are dead, it's the malls and shopping centers that get slammed. One afternoon we stumbled into a promo party thrown by an underground magazine called Junk. It was nice to see some rebellion, even if it was in the super-polite Malay style.

Our guesthouse, the Haven, had a whole library of DVD’s and free broadband. I know that everyone who reads this is on broadband by now, but remember the olden days of the modem? Now, take that modem and plug eight computers into it (making the 56k speed into 7k which means it takes 12–15  agonizing minutes to open an email if the power doesn’t fail) and you have the height of Tioman technology. Since there is no such thing as a good map of KL, the owner of the guesthouse, Eugene, a young, uberfriendly guy who opened the Haven right out of college, and the equally hospitable and tireless manager, Evan, spent a lot of time helping us navigate the convoluted streets. When you live on the road, a good, clean, friendly place to lay your head can make the difference of loving or hating a town.

journey
bios
contact